Beckey, Ream, Wilson, Richards, and Davis at Lone Peak. Credit: Richard F. Ream papers, 1962-1973, J. Willard Marriott Library, Special Collections Department, University of Utah.

Ted Wilson making first attempt on The Coffin, 1962. Credit: Rick Reese Collection, Special Collections, J. Willard Marriott Library, University of Utah.

Alpenbock Climbing Club in 1961-1962. Credit: Rick Reese Papers, J. Willard Marriott Library, Special Collections Department, University of Utah.

Larry Love leading the first pitch of the Sail Face. Credit: Rick Reese Papers, J. Willard Marriott Library, Special Collections Department, University of Utah. Photographer: Ted Wilson.

Little Cottonwood Canyon is now a Historic Climbing Area

On August 5th, 2024, Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC) became America’s first recreational climbing area to be listed in the National Register of Historical Places.

This advocacy work celebrates the legacy of climbing in LCC that lives on today. Recognizing LCC climbing and its surrounding landscape for its historical value elevates the need to protect and preserve this special place in the hearts and minds of Utahns.

As climbing continues to evolve, the routes and the passion for where we climb remain the same. We have a challenge and responsibility to preserve and protect these iconic climbing landscapes, rich with historical value.

Because we can save a place a thousand times, but lose it only once.

A gathering centered around the designation will occur September 25th, 2024 from 5:30-6:30PM in the Lower Little Cottonwood Park & Ride.
Speakers & option for a one-mile hike along the historical Alpenbock Loop led by SLCA staff.
The Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing Area’s period of significance is 1962-1974. Both technical and non-technical climbing in Utah pre-dates this period; however, those activities are less documented. The Alpenbock Climbing Club established routes in the historical area and beyond. They served as the county’s first mountain search and rescue unit.
This period of significance spans from when Alpenbock Climbing Club members Ted Wilson and Larry Love established the first recorded climbing route to the time when route and technical climbing knowledge was passed person-to-person, rather than guidebooks or apps. It also captures the rise of the Leave No Trace movement in climbing - embraced and promoted by the Alpenbock Climbing Club—and the winter/ice climbing led by George Lowe.
The Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing Area holds statewide significance as an excellent representation of a culturally important district in the areas of Recreation and Social History in Salt Lake County, Utah.
In the area of Recreation, the district is significant for its contributions to the development of early rock climbing, the establishment of “classic” climbing routes, the pioneering of hard-rock climbing technology, and the fostering of local enthusiasm for climbing as an outdoor activity. The distinctive granite formations within the historic district have remained unchanged since 1962 and are closely interconnected within a relatively small geographic area.
In the area of Social History, the district is significant for its association with the local Alpenbock Climbing Club and with individuals whose activities were critical in building the Utah climbing community and connecting it with the national climbing community through recognized figures such as Yvon Chouinard, Royal Robbins, Fred Beckey, and Layton Kor. These national figures helped legitimize climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon, elevated the status of the Alpenbock Climbing Club, and contributed to the spread of international climbing culture. Notable local climbers were highly proficient and internationally experienced, working in search and rescue locally and in the Grand Tetons throughout the 1960s.
Read the full proposal here.
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From 2022-2024, the SLCA worked to nominate lower Little Cottonwood Canyon’s (LCC) as a historical climbing area. This advocacy work celebrates the legacy of climbing in LCC that lives on today. Recognizing LCC climbing and its surrounding landscape for its historical value elevates the need to protect and preserve this special place in the hearts and minds of Utahns.
With the support of grants, we were able to hire specialist Kirk Huffaker Preservation Strategies to write the historical nomination. On August 5th, 2024, lower Little Cottonwood Canyon become America’s first recreational climbing area to be listed in the National Register of Historical Places. This could not have been accomplished without the expertise of volunteer SLCA Policy Committee Member and Assistant Director of the American West Center, John Flynn. A huge thanks to University of Utah Librarian Tallie Casucci and her library colleagues for their dedicated work on this project. We appreciate the endorsement from the Forest Service and the Utah State Historic Preservation Office.
What
The National Register of Historic Places (NRHP) is the United States federal government's official list of districts, sites, buildings, structures, and objects deemed worthy of preservation for their historical significance or "great artistic value." The NRHP is a program of the National Park Service and is locally administered by the Utah State Historic Preservation Office.
The Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing Area Historic District holds statewide significance as an excellent representation of a culturally important district in the areas of Recreation and Social History in Salt Lake County, Utah. Its significance is recognized on a statewide level due to the rapid development of climbing as a recreational sport within the district, which was primarily driven by one group—the Alpenbock Climbing Club.
Where
The Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing Area is located at the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon, south east of Salt Lake City, UT. This area can be accessed from two main areas: the Little Cottonwood Park and Ride via the Alpenbock Loop trail or Pipeline trail and the Grit Mill Parking area via the Grit Mill Trail.
Climbing information such as routes and bouldering can be found on Mountain Project and in the guidebookA Granite Guide - Ferguson to Lone Peak.
The Alpenbock Trail is named in honor of the Alpenbock Club. The club's members were the first ascentionists of many of the classic climbing routes in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Although people had tried to climb the granite as early as 1930, the first documented climbing route in Little Cottonwood Canyon was done by Alpenbock Members: Ted Wilson and Bob Stout. Established in 1961, Chickenhead Holiday opened the eyes of Alpenbock Club members and started an era of technical climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon.
The Grit Mill Connector Trail was named after a mid-20th century poultry grit production facility that was removed in 2014 as part of the remediation of the site. The granite grit produced at this mill was supplied to turkey farms in the area where it was fed to the birds to help with digestion.
The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance is making a short film! But we need your help and support to bring this story to the big screen!
Delve into the history of legendary Wasatch climbers in a short documentary, celebrating our climbing legacy in Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons, and the enduring spirit of the Alpenbock Club amid contemporary preservation challenges.
Learn more here.