New Router Symposium - March 23, 2024
We are excited to announce the first ever Utah New Router Symposium 2024!
This symposium is an opportunity for our community of route developers and those interested in this topic to come together for dialogue to help garner consensus surrounding ethics and best practices for route development in the Wasatch. If you are curious about route development, the challenges of route maintenance, or just want a better understanding of the whole climbing system and what goes into putting up new routes, this is for you. We’ve gathered members of the community who are already engaged in new routing as well as members of our anchor maintenance crew to share diverse perspectives on four topics during hour-long panel discussions with time for community input.
As the sport grows in popularity, anchor policies are being proposed by land agencies and climbing real-estate is seeing more pressure. How do we as a community move forward to keep climbing access and ensure sustainability? Join us for panel discussions on a variety of topics that are front and center. The panels are fueled by a range of local route developers and moderated by the SLCA staff and board of directors.
The SLCA will share some things to consider when putting up new routes from a policy perspective. We will also give an inside look at the types of questions our anchor maintenance crew faces when out in the field. The community’s insight and perspectives shared during the symposium will help inform our decision making when we are out maintaining fixed anchors in the Wasatch.
Tickets Include: morning coffee, lunch, gear discounts, and more!
Where: Petzl North America: 2929 Decker Lake Dr, West Valley City, UT 84119
When: 10am - 4pm on Saturday, March 23rd, 2024 (doors open at 9:30am)
Schedule
9:30 - 10:00: Doors Open & Coffee from Alpha Coffee
10:00 - 11:00: Welcome, SLCA’s Anchor Maintenance Program, Current Climbing Policy
11:00 - 12:00: Session 1: Best Practices
12:00 - 12:30: Lunch by Caputos
12:30 - 1:30: Session 2: Then and Now
1:30 - 2:30: Session 3: Re-bolting and Re-engineering
2:30 - 3:30: Session 4: Route Development in 2024
3:30 - 4:00: Group Discussion, Q&A, Closing
Session 1: Best Practices
Delving into the vital role of ongoing stewardship in maintaining climbing crags, this panel session will focus on the core principles of best practices. With a spotlight on the individuals driving sustainable crag development, we'll explore the essential components of creating and maintaining a crag, including infrastructure such as approach trails, belay platforms, and bolts — collectively known as the Climbing Infrastructure System. Additionally, we'll examine the best practices established by the SLCA, Access Fund and American Safe Climbing Association in route development, rebolting techniques, and the use of bolts and equipment for work at height.
panelists
Keith Luscinski is the manager of the Petzl Technical Institute and is pretty good at tying knots. He's a mediocre climber who prefers long walks up moderate trad climbs, and rarely clips bolts. He has zero route development experience, and these days as a new father, he rarely even climbs on real rock. Why then, is he on our panel discussion, you ask? Keith was the previous chair of the slca’s volunteer program called the Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative (WARI) and helped correct hundreds of the plated-steel sins of our climbing forefathers. In 2022 he also coordinated the Petzl ReBolt Trip, a huge volunteer training and bolt replacement event in Chattanooga. he helped pave the way for slca’s current anchor maintenance program.
Glenn Ritter: Within months of learning to climb on an outcrop near Cleveland, the desire to find a patch of unclimbed rock had Glenn scouring the hills until he found his first new route. 37 years later, he has established hundreds of new routes across Ohio, West Virginia, Kentucky, North Carolina, Tennessee, Arkansas, Texas, and now Utah. Always taking pride in high quality route development, Glenn made the switch to stainless in the last century, and glue-ins and leaf blowers in this century.
Karl Guthrie started rock climbing in 1975 living in San Jose, CA. His first climbing experience was at Castle Rock State Park in the Santa Cruz mountains. By 1980 he started establishing trad, bolted and boulder first accents in north California. He has been establishing first accents all over the world for over 40 years with 600+ routes. In 1980’s he founded his first climbing equipment company called Go-Pro, in 1998 he founded ClimbTech with the launch of the Removable Bolt and 30 patented climbing and industrial safety products in the past 25 years. He has a new company called Sport Bolting LLC and is solely focusing on and currently developing new patented innovative rock-climbing bolting equipment.
Alex Lemieux relocated from Montreal in 2000, he has immersed himself in Utah's climbing and skiing scene, balancing guiding with anchor maintenance for the SLCA. Drawn to give back to the community, he has become deeply involved in re-bolting projects and route development, finding fulfillment in making climbing safer and more accessible while enjoying the challenges and teamwork involved in the process.
Moderator
Julia Geisler, SLCA’s Executive Director at the helm since 2010, Julia has been at the forefront of anchor maintenance program; developing the mission to what it is today with the nation’s first professional anchor maintenance crew. The mission of the SLCA’s Fixed Anchor Maintenance Program is to assess the current condition of established anchors, identify and monitor current and future maintenance needs, and replace antiquated and unreliable anchors as necessary and in partnership with land owners and agencies.
Julia is deeply honored to serve the Wasatch climbing community and protect the places we love to climb. Her personal connection to climbing has grown exponentially through SLCA’s advocacy and stewardship work.
Session 2: Then and Now
Over the past 50 years, climbing has transformed from a small niche group to a billion-dollar industry, ground up quarter-inch button heads ascents to top-down strategies with half-inch glue-in bolts. As climbing has changed, so too have the perspectives and ethics of those involved. This panel discussion explores how climbers' attitudes have shifted and how we can learn from the past to ensure sustainable development in the future. Focusing on climbing ethics, risk and sustainability, this discussion aims to gather insights from those who have witnessed and contributed to this evolution, guiding the climbing community towards responsible practices.
panelists
Dave Bingham has been opening climbing routes since the time he started climbing in the late 1970’s in, initially ground-up crack climbs, then rap-bolted routes, mostly in Idaho. He was active route developer during the “bolt wars” period of the 1980’s, and became somewhat notorious both for his guidebook writing and his arrest for “destruction of public property” in 1991 for a route with epoxy-reinforced holds at City of Rocks, Idaho. In recent years he has been building new routes in obscure spots, volunteering time for the Idaho CRAG Local Climbing Oog and re-bolting routes at City of Rocks.
James Garret arrived in Utah in the summer of 1981, he had developed a strong love for Mountaineering living during the 1970s in Montana and the Bernese Oberland in Switzerland. He very quickly embraced his new home and marveled at all the rock and undeveloped “Real Estate”. It was also an ethics/style transition of how he climbed (sticky rubber) and how he protected our climbs: from Pitons to Nuts and Cams to Bolts. every route developer has a steadfast partner, and his through the years has been his wife, franziska who beings her own perspective to new routing.
Darren Knezek moved to Utah from Texas in 1987. He started climbing in Rock Canyon when there were only 55 climbs. Since then he has established over 350 pitches in Rock Canyon. He found Maple Canyon in 1994 with Boyle and Pedersen and began bolting there, as well as finding and developing many of the bouldering areas in Joe's Valley. He found and developed the bouldering areas known as Price is Right and Triassic. Darren has established more than 1,000 sport, trad, and ice climbs. He has also maintained and replaced the bolts and anchors of Rock Canyon, out of his own pocket, for over 30 years. He has 100's of first ascents in The San Rafael Swell, Ibex, Monroe, Santaquin, and Hobble Creek just to name a few. darren is a newly elected slca board member.
Allen Sanderson has been involved in access issues for over thirty five years starting the American Alpine Club Access Committee, he was a founding board member of the Access Fund, and helped found the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance where he was active on the policy Committee. In the 1990s as a regional coordinator for Access Fund he worked closely with the NPS on the establishment and climbing management at the City of Rocks. allen is our resident historian and at the forefront of all things climbing management policy.
Brian Smoot is a Utah native who started climbing in the Wasatch in 1975 and is still climbing. He ran a small business for 35 years and has a family with three children. He also enjoys skiing and kayaking. Brian likes all kinds of climbing and has spent a lot of time in the Wasatch, Zion, Yosemite and elsewhere. Since the early years, Brian has been involved with new route development in many different areas and also fixed anchor replacement. He loves climbing history and hopes to be able to influence young climbers in a positive and environmentally sustainable way.
Moderator
PITT GREWE
BOARD MEMBER
I was lucky enough to be raised in Northern Utah and benefit from the many leaders that established amazing climbing resources and access across all disciplines of climbing. From steep sport routes to world-class cracks and glorious alpine adventures, the Wasatch provides it all. And now as I pass the climbing bug on to my kids and their future climbing partners, I have a heightened priority to help protect and preserve these amazing resources. I want them to experience the joy of an LCC sunrise 2 pitches up and the satisfaction of exploring a wild place right in their backyard. He now works for All Trails and has the perspective of apps in the outdoor recreation space.
Session 3: Re-bolting and re-engineering
Delving into the intricate world of rebolting, this panel discussion will explore the evolving best practices in this essential aspect of climbing route maintenance. From the labor-intensive process of rebolting to the advancements in techniques like hole-for-hole replacement and quality control, we'll examine the journey of rebolting over the years. Additionally, we'll tackle the contentious issue of route reengineering: Should routes remain faithful to their original ascensionists, or should they be modified for safety and to manage climbing traffic?
panelists
Steve “crusher” Bartlett has been climbing 48 years. He has established new routes on 60 previously unclimbed desert towers in southern Utah placing as few bolts as possible, a model of route development increasingly out of step with modern practices. In 2024, should routes even be developed in this style? Should existing sparsely bolted routes, cobwebs and all, be left as they are? He has no easy answers. He has spent several years on the board of the Boulder Climbing Community placing hundreds of bolts as part of their bolt replacement program. This program, with its like-for-like bolt replacement policy, works well for Colorado's Front Range. How well can this model work in other areas? Spoiler alert: "It's complicated."
Brad Heller: From the first time he saw an image of a rock climber as a child in the 1980’s he knew I would pursue the vertical path. His 30+ year journey with climbing has seasoned his life in all ways. It has provided the perfect excuse for him to visit many different countries and allow for a unique perspective to be drawn from immersion into many major global climbing destinations and their cultures. Brad is an all-arounder: Traditional, sport climbing, big-walls, expeditions, and plastic! He has had the good fortune of being exposed to many brilliant climbing partners, mentors and visionaries over the years. As an author, he has written articles that have been published in climbing magazines. He studied and worked in the fields of science and engineering and, from the very beginning, was interested in new routes and route stewardship. Brad is not sure how many routes/pitches he has FA’d or upgraded, but most likely in the 300’s in all styles. For him climbing is a creative pursuit with an equal balance of art and science. Safety and beauty, aesthetics and intelligence are all large motivators for Brad. He is very much a person who values quality over quantity.
These days Brad's focus is directed primarily on his family, with two young children and business ventures. When a window of time allows him to focus on climbing, he gains just as much joy from new-route development and/or completing aged-route improvements as he does from cragging with new or old dear friends he's met through this beautiful and absurd pastime. His biggest joy of all comes from sharing his vision, labor, and creations with friends.
Jimmy Keithley is a husband and father of a family who are climbers. He is a self-employed window cleaner who spends too much time on ropes ”not climbing” He has been climbing since the mid-90s, having had the privilege to climb at various areas around the globe. Jimmy and his family enjoy being stewards in the local climbing community. They are the recipients of the Access Fund's "Sharp End Award" for their work in the climbing community. Jimmy served on the SLCA board for over 7 years and chaired the WARI (Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative). He also helped develop a paid anchor replacement crew, the first in the nation. He has worked with various land agencies over the years to help protect climbing in different areas. In addition to replacing anchors, he has also established routes. Jimmy currently advises the SLCA and serves on the Joes Valley Coalition. Protecting climbing for future generations is his passion.
Nate Liles is the Development Director at the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) and also serves on the Board of Directors/Access Committee for the Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance. Crag stewardship is a priority for Nate and he spends a great deal of his personal time replacing old bolts, training individuals and LCO’s how to sustainably extract and replace hardware, and working with land managers to preserve the climbing resource. He has replaced old bolts on hundreds of routes, mostly at popular, high-traffic single pitch cragging areas.
Eric Salmi grew up in Utah and has called Park City home for most of his life. At 19, he climbed Hatchet Crack in Little Cottonwood Canyon as his first route. He was instantly hooked and has not stopped in over 20 years. Since 2020, Eric has been working with the SLCA as an original member of the Anchor Maintenance Program. He thinks it's important to preserve climbing so the next generations can climb these routes with safe and sustainable hardware. When not rebolting, you can find Eric developing new routes in the West Desert, Uinta Mountains, Echo Canyon and modern lines in Little Cottonwood Canyon.
Moderator
Drew Brodhead
ANCHOR MAINTENANCE COORDINATOR & ADVOCACY COORDINATOR
Climbing and its community have been an integral part of my adult life. I've been climbing for over 18 years and have been a part of the Salt Lake climbing community since 2016. I am honored to be able to use my skills and experience, including my background as a SPRAT Level 3 Rope Access Technician, to service the Salt Lake climbing community in a greater capacity.
Session 4: Route Development in 2024
Is the era of a "gold rush" in route development in Utah over, or are there still untapped opportunities awaiting discovery? Join us as we engage with those who are currently exploring uncharted terrain and uncovering untouched stone. We'll delve into the motivations driving this new wave of developers, their learning experiences, ethical considerations, and sources of inspiration. Additionally, we'll discuss strategies for mindful development that can help minimize the need for extensive future stewardship efforts.
Stefani Day started climbing as an adult (age 40) and as such was never on the cutting edge of route grades. She just loves cool-looking rocks, fun moves, good exercise, and camaraderie. She loves going to uncrowded areas and finding lines that look fun and do-able for people at her level.
Diago Peggs is a born and raised Utahn who has been climbing for 4 years. His main reason to climb is for Adventure!! During those four short, action packed years, he has been taking full advantage of the Wasatch for the excellent training ground that it is. From slabs, to ice, to alpine climbing, even the soul breaking boulder field here and there. He has been able to embrace the unknown and surpass his limits at the very moment!
Tyler Phillips started climbing in 1994 and quickly transitioned into developing routes two years later. With around 400 FA's, he developed classic zones like Coalpit Buttress, East Hellgate, and Tanners Gulch. He has established more routes on The Fin in LCC than anyone else. He continues to develop to this day with his most recent route only a few months ago. Tyler states that he does not climb, he reaches.
Mario R. Stanley is a climber, podcast host, coach, route developer, and explorer. Contestant on HBO Max special: The Climb. A Texan through and through. Mario aspires to take his background working in urban climbing communities to the next level by creating a holistic approach to outdoor climbing. His personal and professional experiences have led him to aspirations to share this world with others by creating opportunities for individuals and groups at every level of climbing. He hopes to ensure climbing areas are for people of all backgrounds, ages, and abilities by working to develop climbs for a diverse range of skill sets, maintain safe climbing hardware, and actively explore opportunities for accessible outdoor climbing areas in South Texas.
Moderator
BLAIR RICE
BOARD MEMBER
One of my core values is service, and I am excited to serve on SLCA's Board of Directors to give back to the land and community that has given so much. It's an incredible feeling to experience the results of this organization's care, whether it's hiking a sustainable approach trail or clipping a safely installed bolt.
